How to spend a weekend on North Devon’s Hartland Peninsula

A weekend on North Devon’s Hartland Peninsula is a weekend filled with dramatic coastlines, picture perfect villages and cosy pubs. It’s a lesser known area compared to other parts of Devon, so is perfect for those looking for a proper escape. Here are the best things to see and do in this little corner of the South West.

Day 1

Clovelly

By far the most popular place on the peninsula, a morning visit to Clovelly is a must. This tiny fishing village is privately owned, and has been since William the Conqueror gifted it to his wife! The picturesque cobbled streets are completely car-free, and locals use sleds for bringing their shopping up and down the steep incline. Once upon a time donkeys were used instead, but now they live a life of quiet retirement at the top of the village. Make sure you pop in to the stables to say hello! Aside from that there are 2 pubs, some shops, a brewery and a museum. But really the big attraction here is just the village itself. Wandering around gives you the feeling of being somewhere out of time. Prepurchase tickets here.

TOP TIP: If you are looking for a free alternative to Clovelly, you can simply head a little further East to Buck’s Mills. Less touristy and even smaller, Buck’s Mills sits hidden in a wooded valley, with similarly steep streets leading past pretty white cottages down to the coast. It hasn’t got the attractions of Clovelly but that’s not always a bad thing if you’re after a little peace and quiet.

Lunch: The Hoops Inn, Horn’s Cross

Not far from Clovelly, and even closer to Buck’s Mills, is The Hoops Inn. Driving down the A39 you’ll easily spot this 13th century thatched building. Serving up pub classics and locally brewed ales, this is a lovely stop no matter the time of year. If it’s a miserable day then cosy up next to the fire with a brew, or in better weather find a spot in their multi-level landscaped gardens and enjoy the sunshine.

Brownsham Wood/Blackchurch Rock

Get your hiking boots on and park up in the Brownsham National Trust car park for an afternoon stroll. Follow the trail past the farms and into Brownsham Wood, which will take you all the way to the coast. It’s a fairly gradual descent and a proper path, so suitable for most abilities. The woods are particularly beautiful in spring, when bluebells are in bloom. Once you reach the ocean you can pick your way across the pebbles to Blackchurch Rock. Something between a stack and an arch (a starch?) it’s quite imposing and makes a great photography subject at sunset.

Dinner: The Anchor Inn, Hartland

Time for some more pub grub, this time in the village of Hartland. There are 3 pubs to choose from but we personally recommend The Anchor Inn. Chatty staff, very dog friendly, and some great vegan options make this a winner. If you are staying in town and want to try the other pubs why not do a little pub crawl to finish off the evening? Cheers to that!

Day 2

Breakfast: Coffee on the Square, Hartland

Starting day 2 where we finished day 1, in Hartland Village. The only cafe in town, Coffee on the Square offers up delicious coffee and breakfasts, including a vegan and veggie option. It’s a great spot to fuel up for the day, or to grab a piece of cake for later.

Hartland Quay/Speke’s Mill Mouth Waterfall

A short drive away is Hartland Quay. The harbour itself was destroyed in a storm in 1887 but what remains is still often used in film and tv shows, including Treasure Island, The Night Manager and most recently the 2020 adaptation of Rebecca. You can actually see the boat used in Rebecca in one of the car parks. The landscape here is wild – steep cliffs, sharp rock formations and, about a mile away, Devon’s most dramatic waterfall. Speke’s Mill Mouth tumbles down the cliffs in stages before meeting the sea. It’s easily accessible via the coast path, despite a few steeper sections. However if you want to go down for a dip it does require some scrambling – we chose to enjoy it from the top!

Lunch: Wrecker’s Retreat, Hartland Quay

Heading back to Hartland Quay, you can enjoy some lunch and a pint in the hotel bar, The Wrecker’s Retreat. Usual dishes include burgers, pasties, and bangers and mash but the real star of the show here is the decor. Not only does it contain many historical photos of shipwrecks and local life, it’s also full of memorabilia from the film and tv productions made here. And if none of that interests you then there’s also plenty of seating outside where you can enjoy the sights and sounds of the crashing waves.

Welcombe Mouth Beach

Walk off your lunch with a stroll across Welcombe Mouth Beach in the afternoon. Getting here is a little hairy – those Devon lanes are no joke – but once you are safely parked up it’s likely you will have the beach all to yourself. It’s dog friendly all year round which is another bonus, and you can extend the adventure by following the coast path southwards to Ronald Duncan’s writing hut. The local poet composed many of his famous works right here and you can see how the landscape would inspire him to write! It’s a pilgrimage site for his fans, but also just a lovely spot for anyone to enjoy the view.

Dinner: The Old Smithy Inn

Just up the road from the beach is another gorgeous thatched pub – The Old Smithy Inn. As the name suggests, this used to be a Blacksmith’s forge before becoming an inn, over 700 years ago. The inside is full of character and the garden is stunning too. Plus it’s very dog friendly and there are a few vegan and veggie options to choose from. And if you simply can’t face the long drive home after a long day and a hearty meal, then they also have 3 rooms available. Click here to book.

Hope this article inspires you to spend a weekend on North Devon’s Hartland Peninsula. For more Devon inspiration have a look here.